Ama Dablam peak Climbing

Ama Dablam peak Climbing

Facts of the Trip

Elevation: 6812m

Location: Khumbu, Nepal

Duration: 15 days

First Ascent: Mike Gill (NZ), Barry Bishop (USA), Mike Ward (UK) and Wally Romanes (NZ) via the Southwest Ridge, 13 March 1961

Best Season: Spring and Autumn

Accommodation: Hotel and Camping

Climbing Route: Western routes

Grade: Mountaineering VI

Transportation: By Flight (to/from Lukla)

Group Size: Maximum 30

Major Activity: Mountaineering

Trip Map: Click Here

Asian Hiking Team organize the Ama Dablam peak climbing start from Base camp, for those climbers who are looking for a climbing part only. We will arrange all camping logistics, guide, permit, leisure officer etc. You can plan a relaxing trek to Ama Dablam Base Camp, with plenty of time to focus on acclimating and familiarization with the territory and technical challenges on the climb. Meet Asian Hiking Team staff in Ama Dablam base camp and climb Sherpa in base camp, push up Camp I (5700m), Camp II (6080m), Camp III (option, 6300m), then succeed the Ama Dablam summit.

Ama Dablam peak is the most popular, beautiful and technical peak climbing in the World. Ama Dablam means "Mother's necklace"; the long ridges on each side like the arms of a mother (Ama) protecting her child, and the hanging glacier thought of as the Dablam, the traditional double-pendant containing pictures of the gods, worn by Sherpa women. The main peak is 6,812 metres (22,349 ft), the lower western peak is 6,170 meters (20,243 ft).

Ama Dablam was first climbed on 13 March 1961 by Mike Gill (NZ), Barry Bishop (USA), Mike Ward (UK) and Wally Romanes (NZ) via the Southwest Ridge. You need to have frozen rock-climbing and crampons skills and be able to climb and rappel with a pack on. You'll be Jumaring on fixed ropes. There are several short, steep sections of near vertical ice and rock on the spectacular ridge between Camp 1 and Camp 3 that require strength and technique. Ama Dablam is usually climbed unroped, using fixed ropes, so it is common for climbers to move together but at the same time be semi-independent on the mountain between camps.

The most popular route by far is the Southwest Ridge. We typically set up three camps along the ridge, with camp 3 just below and to the right of the hanging glacier, the Dablam. But after 2015 April earthquake we have not seated the Camp 3, we climb from Camp 2.

To reach the first camp from base camp, have to pass the toughest and the difficult passing through the difficult saddle ridges; and then should spin to the north climbing up through the rocky land and through the boulder. From Camp, I (5700m), one has to cross the rocky sink and should climb the ridge via the fixed lines to Camp II (6080m). From Camp II after crossing over severe rocks and ridge which lead you to a camp III. Your successful historical ascent to the summit will reward you with an outstanding, breathtaking, panoramic Mountain View and give you endless memories that you will have wealth all your life.

Day by day itinerary

Day 01: Meet our staff in Pangboche, final preparation, check all equipment and meals, overnight stay in Lodge/Hotel yourself.

Day 02: Pangboche to Ama Dablam Base Camp trekking 2-4 hours, overnight at Camp (L/D).

Day 03: Rest day in Ama Dablam Base Camp, Overnight at Camp (B/L/D).

Day 04: Asian Hiking Team staff or rope fixing team, fix the Camp 1, return to Base camp, overnight at camp (B/L/D).

Day 05: Rest day in Base Camp 4700m, overnight at Camp (B/L/D).

Day 06: Base camp to Camp 1, 5700m, overnight at Camp (B/L/D).

Day 07: Asian Hiking Team Staff or rope fixing team, fix the camp II, 6080m and return to Camp 1, Overnight at Camp (B/L/D).

Day 08: Return to Base Camp, Overnight at Camp (B/L/D).

Day 09: Extra day for summit attempt, return to base camp, resting, Overnight at Camp (B/L/D).

Day 10: Base Camp to Camp I, Overnight at Camp (B/L/D).

Day 11: Camp I climb to Camp II, Overnight at Camp (B/L/D).

Day 12: Summit Ama Dablam, return to Camp II, overnight at Camp (B/L/D).

Day 13: Camp II to to Base Camp, Overnight at Camp (B/L/D).

Day 14: Extra day for summit attempt, return to Camp, resting, Overnight at Camp (B/L/D).

Day 15: Clean the base camp hot breakfast and own way trekking to Pangboche or own itinerary as you want(B).