Annapurna IV Expedition

Annapurna IV Expedition

Facts of the Trip

Elevation: 7525m

Location: Annapurna Conservation Area, Nepal

Duration: 30 days

First Ascent: 1955 by a German group led by Heinz Steinmetz

Best Season: Spring and Autumn

Accommodation: Hotel and Camping

Climbing Route: Northern routes

Grade: Mountaineering V

Transportation: By Road or flight

Group Size:

Major Activity: Mountaineering

Trip Map: Click Here

Annapurna IV lying at an elevation of 7525 m is considered comparatively a trouble-free peak to climb among the Annapurna range, a stunning Marsyangdi valley with the impressive views of Annapurna II, III, Manaslu, Gangapurna.

Annapurna IV was first smoothed in 1955 by a German group led by Heinz Steinmetz, Harald Biller (Germany) and Juergen Wellenkamp (Germany) through the North Face and Northwest edge.

The normal route is approached from the Manang side. Caravan route length: 80.6KM through Besi Shahar and Climbing route length: 12.3KM. The trekking route is the same as the Annapurna circuit trek to Hunde. Hunde requires a few hours walking from the base camp to reach the bottom of the mountain.

There are 3 upper camps to summit Annapurna IV. From base camp; it requires approximately 65 - 70 degrees of steep climbing with fixed ropes, approximately 500 meters to reach camp I.

To reach Camp II, approximately 1000 meters of fixed ropes will be required along the ridge and some stretches of steep climbing.

From camp II to camp III it is relatively easy with zigzag crossing and gradually climbing up. However, it will require approximately 1300 – 1500 meters fixed rope.

From camp III to the summit, generally fixed rope is not required, and the main rope is used. From camp I to Camp II, there is more danger of avalanches.

Day 01 : Arrive in Kathmandu, transfer to hotel (B).

Day 02: Stay in Kathmandu, gear check, preparation and official briefing, overnight in Hotel (BB)

Day 03: Travel to Besisahar to Dharapani 1943m 4-5 hours drive by private Jeep, overnight Guest house/Lodge (B/L/D).

Day 04: Dharapani to Chame (2713m), 5 hours, overnight Guest house/Lodge (B/L/D).

Day 05: Chame to Pisang (3115m) 4–5 hours, overnight Guest house/Lodge(B/L/D).

Day 06: Pisang to Humde Airport 3300m (B/L/D).

Day 07: Rest at Humde for acclimatization and explore surrounding (trek to Ngwal and back) (B/L/D).

Day 08: Trek to Annapurna IV base camp, approx. 3/4 hours to reach Base Camp. Overnight in Camp(B/L/D).

Climbing Period

Day 09: At Base Camp preparation, Overnight in Camp (B/L/D).

Day 10: Climb starts, Fix route to camp I, Overnight in Camp (B/L/D).

Day 11: Move to camp I, Overnight in Camp (B/L/D).

Day 12: Fix route to camp II, Overnight in Camp (B/L/D).

Day 13: Carry gears to camp II, Overnight in Camp (B/L/D).

Day 14: Move to camp II, Overnight in Camp (B/L/D).

Day 15: Descend to base camp, Overnight in Camp (B/L/D).

Day 16: Rest days, Overnight in Camp (B/L/D).

Day 17: Ascent Camp II, Overnight in Camp (B/L/D).

Day 18: Fix route to camp III, Overnight in Camp (B/L/D).

Day 19: Move to camp III, Overnight in Camp(B/L/D).

Day 20: Descend to base camp, Overnight in Camp (B/L/D).

Day 21: Rest days, Overnight in Camp (B/L/D).

Day 22: Camp I (Our Sherpa guides once again check the route to Camp II), Overnight in Camp (B/L/D).

Day 23: Camp II (Our Sherpa guides once again check the route to Camp III), Overnight in Camp (B/L/D).

Day 24: Camp III (Our Sherpa guides fix the summit route), Overnight in Camp (B/L/D).

Day 25: Summit and back to camp III, Overnight in Camp (B/L/D).

Day 26: Descend to base camp, Overnight in Camp (B/L/D).

Finish Climbing

Day 27: Cleaning base camp, Pack up base camp and return to Humde, Overnight in Hotel (B/L/D).

Day 28: Humde to Basisahar to Kathmandu by Jeep/bus (B/L)

Day 29 : Leisure day in Kathmandu (BB)

Day 30: Transfer to airport, departure onward destination (B).