Makalu is one of the harder eight thousand meter Mountains. It is one of the most difficult mountains in the world to climb. Mt. Makalu is a little bit dangerous as well. The final ascent of the summit pyramid involves technical rock climbing. Makalu is the only Nepalese 8,000 m peak which has yet to be climbed in true winter conditions.
Mount Makalu was first climbed by a French team in 1955. The West Face of Mt. Makalu was successfully scaled in 1997.
Makalu has many interesting routes leading to the summit via west ridge, west face, south face, southwest face and northwest buttress. The normal commercial route is past the Southeast Peak and along the Southeast ridge. The climb is straightforward but moderately technical with exposure on the SE Ridge; it requires some fixed rope set-up.
Traditionally there are 3 camps, C1 (6,500 m), C2 (7,300 m) at the bottom of the Southeast Peak ridge and C3 (7,900 m) at the beginning of the SE ridge. With very low Base Camp, the Advance Base Camp is set up at 5500 m. The terrain encountered on the ascents varies from glacier crossings to steep snow fields and requires a good understanding of basic alpine climbing techniques. Makalu has climbed Alpine style, but traditionally all commercial operators practice expedition style to improve the chances of summit success for the clients.
The bottom part starts from the base of the West Face at 5,800 meters and climbs to the hanging ice-fall at 6,100 meters to the right part of the ice-fall. The second part extends from the plateau above the ice-fall along 35 to 45 degree elevation's rock up to the 6,500 meters high. The next section is an ice-rock wall, 50 to 55 degrees steep & that extends to 7,400 meters height. The last final section begins 70 to 75 degree elevation's rock pillar, which leads to the west ridge at 8,000 meters height till to the top of the summit. Ropes are typically fixed from 5800 m to 6100 m and from 6500 m to 7500 m. Camps established by the Russian Team were at the following locations. The French Route on the West Pillar is an aesthetically stunning line that has seldom been attempted. It is an exceedingly difficult, a very steep pillar that was first successfully ascended in 1971. The crux of the line comes at approximately 7,600 m in the area of the Seignior Wall.