Nirekha Peak climbing

Nirekha Peak climbing

Facts of the Trip

Elevation: 6159m

Location: Khumbu, Nepal (27°55'21'N 86°56'10'E )

Duration: 18 days

First Ascent: The first ascent was done by Matt Fioretti and Greg Valentine in April 2003.

Best Season: Autumn and Spring (fair weather in Nepal)

Accommodation: Hotel and Camping

Climbing Route: Southern routes

Grade: Mountaineering II

Transportation: By Flight (to/from Lukla)

Group Size: O2 to 15 Pax

Major Activity: Trekking and Climbing

Trip Map: Click Here

Nirekha peak 6159 m is in the same chain as the Lobuje summits, east of the Cho La Col. Nirekha Peak is comparatively a newly opened trekking peak of Nepal. Therefore, it is less crowded and provides a truly unique mountain climbing experience for seasoned climbers.

Nirekha Peak is an interesting and challenging climbing experience. More technical, less popular and less crowded than the Lobuche East, Island Peak or Mera Peak. Only experienced climbers should attempt this route, though it is partially saved with fixed ropes. The summit consists of two summit pyramids. It is unclear which one is higher. The north summit is easier but requires crossing a difficult crevasse, while the south summit requires one pitch in steep 50° ice.

The first ascent was done by Matt Fioretti and Greg Valentine in April 2003. The second ascent was done by an all-women team in October 2003.

The trekking to Nirekha peak base camp has two options, one itinerary over Chola pass and another from the caravan route of Everest base camp then Nirekha base camp. From Base camp to High Camp, it takes approx. 6 hours. It has not been long since Nirekha Peak was open for climbing. From high camp we’ll put our best effort to the summit and once we reach the top, we’ll be dazzled by the scenery seen from the top rewarded by the Nirekha Peak as in reward, it offers scenic view of alluring mountains like Mt. Everest (8848 m), Cho-oyu (8200 m), Nuptse (7879 m), Lhotse (8501 m), Lhotse Shar (8383 m), Makalu (8475 m), Baruntse (7126 m), and some other peaks of Mahalangur range. After the summit, we descend to Base Camp. Next day trekked to Tengboche all the way to Lukla and flew back to Kathmandu.

Asian Hiking Team recommend itinerary starts from Lukla all the way to Everest base camp, climb Kalapattar then trek to Nirekha base camp. If you want to visit Chola pass combine with Nirekha peak is also possible in the same time frame.

Day by day itinerary

Day 01: Arrival in Kathmandu airport, meet our staff then transfer to Hotel.

Day 02: Free day for preparation and official briefing.

Trekking Start

Day 03: Kathmandu – Lukla (2800 m.) by flight and trek to Phakding, 2652 m, overnight Hotel/Lodge.

Day 04: Phakding – Namche Bazaar, 3440 m, overnight Hotel/Lodge.

Day 05: Namche Bazaar Rest for Acclimatization, overnight Hotel/Lodge.

Day 06: Namche Bazaar – Tengboche 3867 m, overnight Hotel/Lodge.

Day 07: Tengboche – Pheriche 4343 m, overnight Hotel/Lodge.

Day 08: Pheriche – Lobuje. 4930 m, overnight Hotel/Lodge.

Day 09: Lobuje – Gorepshep – EBC, overnight Hotel/Lodge in Gorep-shep.

Start Climbing Push

Day 10: Gorepshep- kalapatter – Nirekha Base Camp, overnight Tented Camp.

Day 11: Nirekha Base Camp to High Camp, overnight Tented Camp.

Day 12: Nirekha High Camp to summit Push of Nirekha 6159 m. & back to Base Camp; Tented Camp.

Day 13: Spare days for climbing.

End Climbing

Day 14: Nirekha B.C – Tengboche, overnight Hotel/Lodge.

Day 15: Tengboche – Manju 2760 m 5/6 hours, overnight in Hotel/Lodge.

Day 16: Manju – Lukla, overnight Hotel/Lodge.

Day 17: Lukla- Kathmandu by flight, then transfer to Hotel.

Trekking End

Day 18: Last minute, transfer to Airport for your onward journey.