Himalchuli Expedition

Facts of the Trip

Elevation: 7893m

Location: 28°26?03?N 84°38?15?E (North-west Nepal)

Duration: 38 days

First Ascent: The first ascent was made on May 24, 1960, by Hisashi Tanabe and Masahiro Harada, of Japan

Best Season: Autumn and Spring (fair weather in Nepal)

Accommodation: Guest house and Camping

Climbing Route: south-west face

Grade: Mountaineering VI

Transportation: By Land

Group Size: minimum 02

Major Activity: Trekking and Climbing

Trip Map: Click Here

Himalchuli lies south of Manaslu, Himalchuli has three peaks: the Main East (7893 m), West (7540 m) and North (7371 m). It is also often written as two words, "Himal Chuli". Himal Chuli means “sharp snow peak” in Nepali. True to its name, it presents a varied topography, with gradual glacier-covered slopes interspersed with sharp rocky peaks.

Himalchuli is the second-highest mountain in the Mansiri Himal, part of the Nepalese Himalaya. Himalchuli peak is the 18th highest mountain in the world and is also notable for its large vertical relief over local terrain.

Himalchuli climbing is one of the difficulties in Nepal. There were 10 unsuccessful climbs and 5 successful climbs. Exploratory visits to the peak were made in 1950 and 1954, and a first attempt in 1955 failed early on. Further reconnaissance and attempts followed in 1958 and 1959. The first ascent was made on May 24, 1960, by Hisashi Tanabe and Masahiro Harada, of Japan. The route followed the "Sickle Ridge" from the southwest. They first climbed to the saddle between the West and Main peaks, where they placed the last of six camps. The West Peak was first climbed in 1978 by two members of a Japanese expedition to the main peak of Himalchuli. They climbed from the south (the Dordi Khola) and approached the summit of the West Peak from the east. The North Peak was first climbed in 1985 by a Korean expedition, via the North Face.

Himalchuli expedition has 7 upper camps. From base camp 4200 m, we have fixed Advance base camp above 5100 m which crosses Lindanda glacier. From advance camp to Camp 1 above 5900 m, Camp 1 to Camp 2, 2 6500 m, camp 2 to Camp 3 above 6200 m, Camp 3 to Camp 4 above 6450 m, from camp 4 to camp 5, 6900 m, from camp 5 to camp 6 above 7250m. From Camp 6 to Camp 7, 7700 m is 65 degrees and from camp 7 to summit Himalchuli 7893 m 40 degree ice climb.

The trekking route to reach base camp we drive from Kathmandu to Aarughat- Sotikhola than start trek to Machhakhola, Jagat, Deng, Namrung and base camp.

Day 01: Arrive in Kathmandu; meet our staff transfers to Hotel, overnight Hotel (B).

Day 02: Day 03: Kathmandu final preparation for expedition and Gov. Official briefing, Overnight Hotel (BB).

Day 04: Kathmandu to Aarkhet Bazaar (620m), or Soti Khola by Jeep/ Local Bus 6 -9 hours, overnight hotel (B/L/D).

Day 05: Aarkhet/Sotikhola trek to Machhekhola (870m), 5-6 hours, Overnight Lodge /Tea house (B/L/D).

Day 06: MachheKhola to Jagat (1340m), 5-6 hours, Overnight Lodge /Tea house (B/L/D).

Day 07: Jagat trek to Deng (1860m), 5-6 hours, Overnight Lodge /Tea house (B/L/D).

Day 08: Deng trek to Namrung (2630m), 5-6 hours 2300m, overnight hotel (B/L/D).

Day 09: Namrung trek to Himalchuli base camp (4200m), 4-6 hours, Overnight Camp (B/L/D).

Day 10: Rest day in Base camp, overnight at camp (B/L/D).

Day 11: to Day 30: Himalchuli 7893m Summit period, Overnight at Camp (B/L/D)

Day 31: Base camp to Namrung, overnight at lodge/guest house (B/L/D).

Day 32: Namrung trek to Deng, overnight at Lodge (B/L/D).

Day 33: Deng trek to Jagat, overnight at lodge/guest house (B/L/D).

Day 34: Jagat trek to Machhakhola, overnight at lodge/guest house (B/L/D).

Day 35: Machhakhola trek to Sotikhola, overnight at lodge/guest house (B/L/D).

Day 36: Sotikhola to Kathmandu bus/Jeep, transfer to hotel, overnight at Hotel (B/L/D).

Day 37: Free day in Kathmandu, welfare dinner, overnight at hotel.

Day 38: Departure from Nepal or next trip.